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Microbiologists have been growing microbes on agar plates for nearly 150 years, but agar’s discovery dates back to a happy accident in a mid-17th-century kitchen. Legend has it that on a cold winter day, a Japanese innkeeper cooked tokoroten soup, a Chinese agar seaweed recipe known in Japan for centuries. After the meal, the innkeeper discarded the leftovers outside and noticed the next morning that the sun had turned the defrosting jelly into a porous mass. Intrigued, the innkeeper was said to have boiled the substance again, reconstituting the jelly. Since this discovery, agar has become a staple in many Japanese desserts, from yokan to anmitsu.

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A few years later, in 2024, researchers in multiple labs were horrified to notice toxic batches of agar for reasons as yet unclear. After they observed a worrying lack of microbial growth (impeding their ability to carry out basic experiments), they switched to different agar suppliers, and their results improved.

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